Common Plumbing Problems

Water that tastes or smells off -- chlorine, rotten eggs, metallic, musty -- has a specific cause for each type. Identifying what it tastes or smells like is the fastest path to the right fix.

Tub draining slow or holding standing water? Almost always a hair clog in the stopper, crossbar, or P-trap. Soap scum and conditioner cement it into a dense mat. Clearable in under 30 minutes.

Chips and cracks in porcelain, enamel, fireclay, composite, and acrylic sinks range from cosmetic to structural. Small chips fix with a touch-up kit. Larger cracks may need refinishing or replacement.

Motor hums but nothing grinds? Something is wedged between the impeller and shred ring. Ten-minute fix with a 1/4-inch Allen wrench.

Disposal leaks come from three places: top (sink flange), side (discharge pipe or dishwasher hose), or bottom (internal seal failure). Where it leaks tells you whether it is a simple fix or a replacement.

Flip the switch and get nothing -- no hum, no sound? That is electrical, not a jam. Tripped reset, tripped breaker, or bad switch are all quick fixes. Burned-out motor means replacement.

One drip per second wastes over 3,000 gallons a year. Usually a worn cartridge, washer, or seal -- straightforward DIY fix that stops the waste and the noise.

Water freezing inside a pipe generates over 2,000 PSI -- enough to split copper, PEX, or PVC. Pipes in exterior walls, crawl spaces, attics, and garages are most vulnerable. Quick thawing before a burst saves thousands.

White, chalky deposits on everything -- faucets, shower heads, glass doors, inside pipes and water heaters. Calcium and magnesium restrict flow, kill efficiency, shorten appliance life. About 85% of US homes have hard water.

Unexplained spike in your water bill usually means a hidden leak, running toilet, or dripping fixture. Finding and fixing it saves hundreds per year.

Water escaping around, under, or between shower door panels -- worn seals, misaligned doors, bad caulk, or spray hitting the gaps directly. Most fixes take under an hour and cost less than $30.

Leak can come from supply lines, shutoff valves, faucet connections, drain, or P-trap. The cabinet hides it, so it often goes unnoticed until damage is underway. Finding the exact source is step one.

Water dripping from around the valve handle or packing nut -- packing failure, not a pipe leak. Fix is usually tightening the nut or replacing the packing, often with the water still on.

Water around the base demands immediate attention -- floor damage, mold, electrical hazards. Could be loose fittings, a failing T&P valve, a bad drain valve, or a rusted-through tank that needs replacement.

Handle wobbles, spins, or feels loose? Spout rotates when it should not? Almost always a loose set screw, worn adapter, or deteriorated O-rings. Ten-minute fix, often costs nothing.

RO system filling slowly, weak trickle, or running out of water? Clogged pre-filters, worn membrane, low feed pressure, or waterlogged tank. Most fixes are filter replacements or pressure adjustments.

Weak shower flow? Could be a clogged head, partially closed valve, worn cartridge, low house pressure, or an aggressive flow restrictor. Fix depends on whether the problem is shower-only or whole-house.

Could be a clogged aerator or partially closed valve (five-minute fix), or a failing PRV, corroded pipes, or municipal issue. First step: is it one fixture, one area, or the whole house?

No hot water from any fixture? Cause depends on gas vs. electric. Common culprits: pilot light out, tripped breaker, failed element, faulty thermostat or gas valve.

Whistling, screaming, chattering, or banging -- each sound has a specific cause. Whistling means restriction. Chattering means worn washer or cartridge. Banging when it shuts off is water hammer. Match the sound to the fix.

Grinding means worn bearings. Rattling means debris or loose hardware. Banging means check valve slam. Each sound points to a different fix. Address it before a minor noise becomes a complete pump failure.

Toilet refills on its own without anyone flushing? Tank is silently leaking into the bowl through a worn flapper. Water level drops, fill valve kicks on. Wastes hundreds of gallons per month. One of the easiest toilet repairs.

Lights but will not stay lit? Almost always the thermocouple -- a safety sensor that detects the pilot flame. When it fails, the gas valve shuts off. Straightforward DIY repair, under $25.

Tiny holes from the inside out due to pitting corrosion. Start as small drips or green stains. One is a repair. Multiple are a warning that the entire system may be deteriorating.

Failing PRV lets dangerously high pressure into the house. Bursts supply lines, damages appliances, causes hammer, shortens fixture life, leaks everywhere. Normal is 40-60 PSI. Above 80 is dangerous and needs immediate attention.

Brown or rusty water? Could be corroding pipes, deteriorating heater tank, depleted anode rod, or a municipal main disturbance. First step: hot only, cold only, or both? That narrows the source immediately.

Scalding hot or ice cold without touching the handle? Failing pressure-balancing cartridge, competing water demand, or a heater issue. Replacing the cartridge is the most common fix.

Foul smell from the drain? Bacterial biofilm in the pipe, dried-out P-trap letting sewer gas through, or food debris in the disposal or overflow. Most drain odors fixed in under 30 minutes with household items.

Almost always a partial clog from hair, soap scum, grease, or food debris in the drain, P-trap, or branch line. Simple DIY fix, under 30 minutes.

No flow, weak flow, or will not switch modes? Clogged diverter valve, kinked hose, mineral buildup in the head, or cracked hose. Diverter is the most overlooked cause and the most common fix.

Popping, rumbling, crackling, hissing? Almost always sediment buildup. Water trapped under the layer superheats and steam bubbles pop as they escape. Warning sign that the heater is overworked and maintenance is overdue.

Usually discovered during an emergency -- something is leaking and the valve will not budge. Older gate valves seize after years of disuse. Fix ranges from penetrating oil and patience to full replacement.

Runs non-stop or cycles every few minutes? Will burn out prematurely. Stuck float, missing check valve, undersized pump, or high water table. Each has a different fix.

Basement flooding emergency waiting to happen. Usually electrical (tripped breaker, unplugged cord, GFCI), mechanical (stuck float), or burned-out motor. Diagnosing takes minutes and prevents thousands in water damage.

One of the biggest water wasters in a home. Water flows continuously into the bowl or overflows inside the tank. Worn flapper, faulty fill valve, or float set too high. 200+ gallons per day wasted.

Water pooling at the base usually means a failed wax ring. Left unaddressed: sewer gas in the home, subfloor rot, mold, and structural damage beneath the floor.

Weak flush, incomplete, or multiple flushes to clear? Tank water level too low, clogged rim holes, flapper closing too fast, or partial clog in the trap or drain.

Loud banging when a valve closes suddenly. Shockwave can damage pipes, loosen fittings, and stress connections. Fix: hammer arrestors, recharge air chambers, or reduce pressure.

Warm but not hot enough -- different from no hot water. Heater is working but something prevents it from reaching or holding temperature. Thermostat too low, sediment insulating the element, failing element, or undersized unit.