Dripping Faucet
Updated February 20, 2026
One drip per second wastes over 3,000 gallons a year. Usually a worn cartridge, washer, or seal -- straightforward DIY fix that stops the waste and the noise.
Overview
Seems minor, adds up fast. One drip per second fills a small swimming pool over a year. Beyond water waste, a persistent drip stains the sink, encourages mold, and signals wear that only gets worse. The fix depends on your faucet type (cartridge, ball, ceramic disc, or compression), but the approach is the same: water off, disassemble the handle, find the worn part, replace it.
Symptoms
- Steady drip from the spout with the faucet off
- Water pooling around the base
- Handle feels loose or needs extra force to close
- Audible drip, especially at night
- Staining or mineral deposits in the basin from constant dripping
Common Causes
- Worn cartridge or valve seat -- most common in single-handle faucets
- Damaged O-rings or washers -- especially compression-style faucets
- Corroded valve components from age or water chemistry
- Hard water mineral buildup on seals preventing a tight closure
- Loose or worn packing nut around the stem
What You'll Need
How to Fix It
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Turn Off the Water Supply
Shutoff valves under the sink, clockwise until fully closed. Turn the faucet on to release pressure and confirm water is off.
Tip: Shutoffs stuck or corroded? Kill the main supply instead. -
Plug the Drain and Prepare Your Workspace
Cover the drain so small screws do not fall in. Towel on the counter, lay parts out in removal order. Makes reassembly much easier.
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Remove the Faucet Handle
Screw is usually hidden under a decorative cap. Pry off the cap, remove the screw with Phillips or Allen wrench. Lift the handle straight up and off.
Tip: Stuck? Penetrating oil, let it sit 10 minutes. Never force with pliers -- cracks the handle or damages the stem. -
Identify Your Faucet Type and Inspect the Internals
Handle off, now you can see the internals. Cartridge: cylindrical, pulls straight out. Ball: rotating ball with spring-loaded seats. Compression: threaded stem with rubber washer at the bottom. Look for wear, cracks, discoloration, or mineral buildup on seals and moving parts.
Warning: Photo before removing anything. Invaluable reference for reassembly. -
Remove and Replace the Worn Component
Cartridge: grip with pliers, pull straight out, replace the whole thing. Compression: unscrew the stem, replace washer and O-ring. Ball: replace springs, seats, and cam washer. Take the old parts to the store for exact matching.
Tip: Thin layer of plumber's grease on new O-rings and seals. Better seal, easier disassembly next time. -
Reassemble and Test
Reinstall cartridge or stem, handle back on, retaining screw tight. Shutoffs back on slowly, check for leaks at handle and spout. Run hot and cold 30 seconds to confirm the drip is gone.
Warning: Still dripping after new cartridge or washer? The valve seat may be damaged and need resurfacing or replacement. Less common but worth checking.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if the drip persists after replacing the cartridge or washer, if you cannot identify the faucet type, if the shutoffs are seized and you cannot turn off the water, or if the faucet body is cracked or corroded. Also for wall-mounted or specialty faucets where access is limited.
Prevention Tips
- Do not overtighten handles. Compresses washers and seals faster than normal use.
- Water softener if you have hard water. Reduces mineral buildup on internal parts.
- Replace cartridges or washers at first sign of dripping, before the valve seat gets damaged.
- Clean the aerator every few months. Maintains flow and reduces back-pressure on seals.
- Extreme cold? Slight drip on exposed pipes prevents freeze-related pressure damage to faucet internals.