Exercising Shut-Off Valves
Updated February 20, 2026
Every home has dozens of shut-off valves -- under sinks, behind toilets, at the water heater, on the main line. They sit there for years without being touched. Then a pipe bursts and you grab the valve handle and it won't budge. Mineral deposits, corrosion, and rubber degradation seize valves that aren't used. Exercising them once or twice a year keeps them functional when you need them most.
Overview
Every home has dozens of shut-off valves -- under sinks, behind toilets, at the water heater, on the main line. They sit there for years without being touched. Then a pipe bursts and you grab the valve handle and it won't budge. Mineral deposits, corrosion, and rubber degradation seize valves that aren't used. Exercising them once or twice a year keeps them functional when you need them most.
What to Know
Step by Step
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Locate all shut-off valves
Walk through the house and identify every shut-off valve. The main shutoff is typically near the water meter or where the main line enters the house. Individual fixture valves are under sinks, behind toilets, and near appliances. Make a list if you haven't before.
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Turn each valve off and back on
Close the valve fully (clockwise for gate valves, 90 degrees for ball valves), then open it fully. Do this slowly -- don't force it. For gate valves, close fully and then open a quarter turn back from full open (this prevents the gate from seizing in the full-open position).
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Check for leaks after operating
After exercising each valve, check around the handle and the packing nut for drips. A small drip from the packing nut after exercising usually means the packing material is worn. Tighten the packing nut a quarter turn. If it still drips, the packing needs replacement -- a $2 fix.
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Test full shutoff
For critical valves (main shutoff, water heater), close the valve and verify water actually stops at the downstream fixture. A valve that turns but doesn't stop the water has a failed seat or gate -- it needs replacement.
Pro Tips
- Exercise valves every 6 months -- spring and fall are good reminders.
- Label each valve with a tag or marker noting what it controls. In an emergency, you don't want to guess.
- If a valve is stiff, apply a few drops of penetrating oil (PB Blaster or WD-40) around the stem and let it sit 15 minutes before trying again.
- When you find a seized valve, don't force it -- you can snap the handle or break the valve body. Replace it.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Never touching shut-off valves for years, then forcing them during an emergency -- breaking the valve and making the flood worse.
- Forcing a stuck gate valve with pliers or a wrench. The stem can snap inside the valve body.
- Not checking for leaks after exercising. A packing leak drips slowly and causes water damage over time.
- Assuming the main shutoff works because you tested the fixture valves. Test the main separately.
When to Call a Pro
If a valve is completely seized and penetrating oil doesn't free it, a plumber can replace it. If the main shutoff valve won't close fully, that's a priority replacement -- you need to be able to shut off the entire house in an emergency. Main valve replacement typically costs $200-$400.
Bottom Line
Turn every valve in the house off and on twice a year. It takes 15 minutes and it means the difference between stopping a flood in 10 seconds and watching helplessly while water pours. Label them while you're at it.