Toilet Flange Repair & Replacement
Updated February 20, 2026
A broken or corroded toilet flange is the usual culprit when a toilet rocks, leaks at the base, or smells like sewer gas even though the wax ring is new. The flange is the ring that sits on (or in) the floor and connects the toilet to the drain pipe. Over time, the bolt slots break, cast iron flanges rust through, or the flange settles below floor level after new flooring is added. The fix depends on what's wrong, but most repairs are under $40 in parts.
Overview
A broken or corroded toilet flange is the usual culprit when a toilet rocks, leaks at the base, or smells like sewer gas even though the wax ring is new. The flange is the ring that sits on (or in) the floor and connects the toilet to the drain pipe. Over time, the bolt slots break, cast iron flanges rust through, or the flange settles below floor level after new flooring is added. The fix depends on what's wrong, but most repairs are under $40 in parts.
What to Know
Tools & Materials
- Flange repair ring or replacement flange
- Stainless steel screws (not drywall screws)
- Putty knife and scraper
- Drill with masonry bit (for concrete subfloors)
- PVC cement (if replacing a PVC flange)
- Hacksaw or oscillating tool
- Wax ring or wax-free seal
Step by Step
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Remove the toilet and assess
Pull the toilet and scrape off the old wax ring. Inspect the flange. Check if the bolt slots are broken, if the flange is cracked, if it's corroded, or if it's sitting below floor level. This determines which repair approach to use.
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Repair broken bolt slots
If only the bolt slots are broken, a stainless steel repair ring is the easiest fix. It slips over the old flange and screws into the subfloor, providing new bolt slots. Make sure the repair ring sits flat and level.
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Fix a low flange
If the flange is below floor level (common after tile is added), use a flange extender. These stack onto the existing flange with a gasket between them and bring the mounting surface up to floor level. Screw the extender into the subfloor.
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Replace a severely damaged flange
If the flange is cracked through, separated from the pipe, or corroded beyond repair, you need a full replacement. Cut the old flange off the drain pipe with an oscillating tool or inside pipe cutter. Glue or mechanically connect a new flange to the drain pipe. Screw it to the subfloor.
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Reinstall the toilet
With the flange repaired, install a new wax ring or wax-free seal, set the toilet, and bolt it down. Test for leaks and rocking.
Pro Tips
- Use stainless steel screws for the flange repair, not drywall screws. Drywall screws are brittle and snap under lateral force.
- If the subfloor around the flange is rotted, replace the rotted section before fixing the flange. A flange screwed into wet, soft wood won't hold.
- A $15 flange repair ring fixes most broken-slot situations and takes 10 minutes to install. Don't overthink this repair.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Using shims or extra wax to compensate for a low flange instead of actually fixing the height.
- Screwing the flange to rotted subfloor that can't hold it.
- Using the wrong type of replacement flange for the drain pipe material (PVC flange on cast iron pipe without a proper adapter).
- Overtightening the flange screws into tile, which can crack the tile.
When to Call a Pro
If the drain pipe itself is damaged or needs to be cut and reconnected, that's plumber territory. Also call a pro if you have a cast iron drain stack and the flange has corroded onto the pipe -- separating them without cracking the stack requires experience.
Bottom Line
Most toilet flange repairs are $10-$40 in parts and under an hour of work. A repair ring fixes broken slots, an extender fixes low flanges, and a full replacement handles the rest. Don't stack wax rings or use shims as a permanent fix -- address the flange itself.