How to Replace a Wax Ring
Updated February 20, 2026
Fix a toilet leaking at the base by replacing the wax ring seal. Remove the toilet, scrape old wax, set new ring, reset. Under $25 and 1-2 hours.
Overview
Water at the base of a toilet usually means the wax ring has failed. The wax ring is the thick seal between the toilet horn and the floor flange that keeps water and sewer gas from escaping. Replacing it requires removing the toilet, scraping off the old wax, setting a new ring, and resetting the toilet. Moderate effort -- toilets are heavy (50-100 lbs) and you only get one shot at placing it on the new wax. But the parts cost under $25 and the repair prevents subfloor rot, mold, and sewer gas in your home.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Stuff a rag into the open drain hole after removing the toilet. Sewer gas (methane, hydrogen sulfide) is hazardous in enclosed spaces.
- Lift the toilet with your legs, not your back. 50-100 lbs of awkward porcelain. Have a helper if possible.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Shut Off Water and Drain the Toilet
Turn off the water supply at the shut-off valve behind the toilet. Flush and hold the handle to drain the tank. Sponge out remaining water from the tank and bowl. Disconnect the water supply line from the bottom of the tank. Have towels and a bucket ready.
Tip: The more water you remove now, the less mess when you lift the toilet. A wet-dry vacuum is fastest for emptying the bowl completely. -
Remove the Toilet
Pop off the decorative caps on the closet bolts at the base. Remove the nuts with an adjustable wrench. Corroded and will not turn? Hacksaw through them. Rock the toilet gently side to side to break the old wax seal. Lift straight up and off the bolts. Set on a towel or old blanket nearby. Stuff a damp rag into the drain hole immediately.
Tip: Have the towel or blanket ready before you lift. You need to set the toilet down quickly -- holding 50-100 lbs of porcelain while looking for a spot is not fun. -
Scrape and Inspect
Scrape all old wax off the floor flange and the bottom of the toilet horn with a putty knife. Get it all -- new wax will not bond to old wax residue. Inspect the flange: firmly anchored to the floor? At or above the finished floor level? Cracked bolt slots? If cracked but anchored, install a repair ring ($5-10). If severely corroded or broken, it needs replacement (plumber territory).
Tip: Check the subfloor around the flange for soft spots, discoloration, or mold. Spongy subfloor needs repair before resetting the toilet. A rotted subfloor will not hold the toilet and the new seal will fail. -
Set New Closet Bolts and Wax Ring
Insert new closet bolts into the flange slots. Position them evenly on opposite sides. Place the new wax ring on the flange centered over the drain opening, wax side up. If using a ring with a plastic horn (funnel), the horn points down into the drain pipe. Remove the rag from the drain hole.
Tip: Extra-thick wax ring if the flange sits below the finished floor level (common after new tile or flooring). Or try wax-free (Fluidmaster Better Than Wax) -- reusable, adjustable, and you can reposition the toilet without needing a new ring. -
Set the Toilet
Lift the toilet and carefully lower it straight down onto the flange, aligning the bolt holes with the closet bolts. Press down firmly with your body weight to compress the wax. Do not rock or twist -- this deforms the seal. Sit on the toilet for a minute to compress fully. Place washers and nuts on the bolts. Tighten alternately (a few turns per side) until snug. Do not overtighten -- porcelain cracks.
Tip: One chance with wax. Once compressed, lifting and repositioning means a new ring. Align carefully before lowering. Look straight down through the bolt holes to center the toilet over the bolts. -
Reconnect and Test
Reconnect the water supply line. Turn on the water and let the tank fill. Flush several times and check around the base for any moisture. Dry the floor completely and check again after 10 minutes. If dry, trim the closet bolts with a hacksaw if they protrude too high, install the decorative caps, and caulk around the base -- leave the back uncaulked for leak detection.
Tip: Back uncaulked on purpose. If the ring ever fails again, water escapes through the gap and alerts you instead of silently rotting the subfloor.
Pro Tips
- Wobbles after setting? Plastic toilet shims under the base before caulking. Never tighten the bolts more to fix a wobble -- you will crack the porcelain.
- If the toilet rocked before, that movement is what broke the old wax ring. Shim and stabilize so it does not happen again.
- Wax-free seals (Fluidmaster Better Than Wax, Sani Seal) are more forgiving. You can reposition the toilet and they work on flanges that are above or below the floor. Worth the extra cost for first-timers.
- Replace the supply line while you have it disconnected. Braided stainless ($5-8) is cheap insurance. Old rubber or chrome lines fail without warning.
- While the toilet is off, replace the closet bolts too. New bolts, washers, and nuts are included in most wax ring kits.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if the floor flange is severely corroded or broken (requires working with the drain pipe), if the subfloor is rotted, if the toilet base is cracked, or if the leak persists after a new wax ring (flange height issue or drain problem). A plumber can install a flange extender if the floor level has changed.