What are expert tips for water heater installation process?

Always use dielectric unions. Without them, the copper-to-steel connection corrodes and leaks within a few years. Fill the tank completely before turning on gas or electric. Firing a dry heating element or burner will damage the unit immediately. Take photos of the old connections before you disconnect anything. This is your reference for reconnecting the new unit. Check the T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve by lifting the lever briefly after the tank is full. Water should discharge through the overflow pipe. If it doesn't, the valve is faulty.

What mistakes should I avoid with water heater installation process?

Firing up the heater before the tank is full -- this burns out the element or damages the gas burner. Skipping dielectric unions, leading to galvanic corrosion at the connections within 2-3 years. Not checking gas connections for leaks. A gas leak is an explosion risk. Ignoring the expansion tank requirement in a closed plumbing system. Venting a gas heater with too many elbows or insufficient slope, causing backdrafting.

Water Heater Installation Process | The Plumbing Directory

Overview

Replacing a water heater is one of those jobs that's technically doable for a skilled DIYer but comes with enough moving parts -- gas lines, electrical connections, venting, and water supply -- that most people hire it out. If you're going tank-to-tank with the same fuel type, the swap is manageable. If you're switching from tank to tankless, or gas to electric, the scope jumps significantly. Here's what each scenario actually involves.

What to Know

Tank-to-Tank Replacement (Same Fuel)

This is the most common scenario. Drain the old tank, disconnect water lines and gas/electrical, remove the old unit, set the new one in place, reconnect everything. If the venting, gas line, and water connections are in the same spot, it's a straightforward swap. Budget 3-4 hours for DIY.

Tankless Conversion

Going from tank to tankless requires significant changes. Gas tankless units need a larger gas line (usually 3/4 inch minimum), a dedicated venting system (stainless steel, often through a sidewall), and electrical power for the control board. Electric tankless units need a dedicated 240V circuit (often multiple circuits for whole-house units). This is not a simple swap -- it's a renovation.

Gas vs Electric

Gas water heaters need a gas supply line, a draft hood or power vent, and proper combustion air. Electric heaters need a dedicated 240V, 30-amp circuit (for standard tank) or multiple high-amp circuits (for tankless). Switching fuel types means adding new infrastructure and possibly removing old.

Expansion Tank

If your home has a pressure reducing valve (PRV) or a backflow preventer on the main supply, you need a thermal expansion tank on the cold water inlet to the heater. When water heats up, it expands. In a closed system (created by the PRV), that pressure has nowhere to go without an expansion tank. This is code in most areas.

Tools & Materials

Pipe wrenches and adjustable wrenches
Pipe cutter and fittings
Thread seal tape and pipe dope
Garden hose (for draining the old tank)
Dielectric unions (to prevent galvanic corrosion)
Gas leak detector or soapy water
Vent pipe and connectors (for gas units)
Voltage tester (for electric units)

Step by Step

Shut off utilities
Gas: turn the gas valve to OFF. Electric: flip the breaker. Close the cold water supply valve to the heater. Attach a hose to the drain valve at the bottom of the tank and drain it. This takes 20-40 minutes for a full tank.
Disconnect and remove the old heater
Disconnect the water lines (hot and cold), the gas line or electrical connections, and the vent pipe. Remove the old unit. Old tanks are heavy even when drained -- there's always sediment and a few gallons of residual water.
Position the new heater
Set the new unit in place. Check local code for clearances -- gas heaters typically need specific distances from combustible materials. Electric heaters are more flexible. Make sure the T&P relief valve discharge pipe can route to a safe location.
Connect water lines
Use dielectric unions between copper pipes and the heater's steel nipples -- this prevents galvanic corrosion at the connection point. Connect cold inlet (usually marked with a blue ring) and hot outlet. Connect the expansion tank to the cold inlet if needed.
Connect gas or electrical
Gas: reconnect the gas line using a flexible gas connector. Tighten fittings and check every connection with soapy water or a gas leak detector. Electric: connect the wiring per the manufacturer's instructions with the breaker still OFF.
Connect venting (gas only)
Reattach the vent pipe from the draft hood to the chimney flue. Check that the vent slopes upward at least 1/4 inch per foot toward the chimney. For power vent units, follow the manufacturer's venting instructions exactly.
Fill and test
Open the cold water supply valve. Open a hot faucet in the house to let air escape as the tank fills. Once you get a steady stream from the hot faucet (no air sputtering), close it. Turn on the gas or flip the breaker. Check all connections for leaks. Wait 30-60 minutes for the water to heat, then verify hot water at fixtures.

Pro Tips

Always use dielectric unions. Without them, the copper-to-steel connection corrodes and leaks within a few years.
Fill the tank completely before turning on gas or electric. Firing a dry heating element or burner will damage the unit immediately.
Take photos of the old connections before you disconnect anything. This is your reference for reconnecting the new unit.
Check the T&P (temperature and pressure) relief valve by lifting the lever briefly after the tank is full. Water should discharge through the overflow pipe. If it doesn't, the valve is faulty.

Mistakes to Avoid

Firing up the heater before the tank is full -- this burns out the element or damages the gas burner.
Skipping dielectric unions, leading to galvanic corrosion at the connections within 2-3 years.
Not checking gas connections for leaks. A gas leak is an explosion risk.
Ignoring the expansion tank requirement in a closed plumbing system.
Venting a gas heater with too many elbows or insufficient slope, causing backdrafting.

When to Call a Pro

Gas water heater installations in many jurisdictions require a permit and inspection. If you're changing fuel types, switching to tankless, or if the existing gas line needs to be upsized, call a licensed plumber. Also call a pro if you're not confident working with gas connections -- a gas leak is not a learning-on-the-job situation.

Bottom Line

A tank-to-tank water heater swap is a solid DIY project for experienced homeowners. Use dielectric unions, fill before firing, and test every connection. Tankless conversions and fuel-type changes are pro territory for most people.

Water Heater Installation Process