Quarterly Sump Pump Testing
Updated February 20, 2026
A sump pump sits in a pit doing nothing for months at a time -- until a heavy rain hits and it's the only thing between you and a flooded basement. The problem is, pumps can fail silently. The float sticks, the check valve fails, the motor burns out -- and you won't know until water is pouring in. A 10-minute test every quarter catches failures before they cost you thousands.
Overview
A sump pump sits in a pit doing nothing for months at a time -- until a heavy rain hits and it's the only thing between you and a flooded basement. The problem is, pumps can fail silently. The float sticks, the check valve fails, the motor burns out -- and you won't know until water is pouring in. A 10-minute test every quarter catches failures before they cost you thousands.
What to Know
Step by Step
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Visual inspection
Check the pit for debris, sediment, or anything that could block the pump intake or jam the float switch. Remove any gravel, toys, or objects that have fallen in. Make sure the discharge pipe is clear and directed away from the foundation.
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Pour water into the pit
Slowly pour 5 gallons of water into the sump pit. Watch the float switch -- it should rise and trigger the pump automatically. The pump should run until the water level drops below the shutoff point, then stop. If the float sticks or the pump doesn't activate, you have a problem.
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Listen to the pump
While it's running, listen for unusual sounds -- grinding, rattling, or labored motor noise. A healthy pump hums smoothly. Grinding means debris in the impeller. Labored running means the motor is struggling -- possibly a worn impeller or a partially blocked discharge line.
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Check the discharge
Go outside and verify water is actually coming out of the discharge pipe. A running pump that isn't moving water usually means a failed check valve (water pumps up and drains right back down) or a blocked discharge line.
Pro Tips
- Test before the rainy season, not during it. Spring testing catches winter failures.
- Pour water slowly to simulate a natural rise. Dumping water in fast can bypass a stuck float.
- Mark test dates on the pump with tape or a marker. Patterns help -- if the pump is getting louder each quarter, it's wearing out.
- Keep a spare float switch under $15 on hand. It's the most common failure point.
Mistakes to Avoid
- Never testing the pump and assuming it works because it ran last year.
- Only testing the primary pump and ignoring the battery backup.
- Ignoring a pump that cycles on and off rapidly -- this usually means a failed check valve.
- Not checking the discharge pipe for ice blockage in winter or dirt dauber nests in summer.
When to Call a Pro
If the pump doesn't activate at all, makes grinding noises, or runs continuously without lowering the water level, it likely needs replacement. If the pit is filling faster than the pump can handle during storms, you may need a higher-capacity pump or a secondary unit.
Bottom Line
Pour water in, watch it pump out, check the discharge. Ten minutes, four times a year. A $200 sump pump protects a $20,000 basement -- but only if it actually works when the water comes.