What are expert tips for check valve & discharge line best practices?

Use a rubber coupling with hose clamps on the check valve connection instead of cementing it. Check valves need replacement every 5-7 years, and a rubber coupling makes that a 5-minute job instead of a cutting-and-regluing ordeal. In cold climates, insulate the discharge pipe where it passes through the foundation wall. A frozen discharge line means the pump runs but water has nowhere to go, which floods the basin and then the basement. Drill a small weep hole (1/8 inch) in the discharge pipe just above the pump outlet but below the check valve. This prevents an airlock that can keep the pump from priming.

What mistakes should I avoid with check valve & discharge line best practices?

Installing the check valve backwards -- water flows the wrong way and the pump can't discharge. Mounting the check valve at the top of the discharge run instead of near the pump, which leaves a full pipe of water above the pump. Not sealing the wall penetration, allowing water and radon into the basement. Discharging too close to the foundation or into a spot that drains back toward the house.

Check Valve & Discharge Line Best Practices

Overview

The check valve and discharge line are where most sump and ejector pump problems actually happen. The pump itself is usually fine -- it's the check valve that fails or the discharge line that freezes, kinks, or terminates too close to the foundation. Getting these two components right is the difference between a pump system that works for 10 years and one that fails the first time you really need it.

What to Know

Why Check Valves Matter

Every time the pump shuts off, gravity pulls the water in the discharge pipe back toward the basin. Without a check valve, that water falls right back in, the float rises, and the pump kicks on again. This short-cycling burns out the motor in months instead of years. The check valve is a $15-$25 part that saves a $200-$400 pump.

Swing vs Spring Check Valves

Swing check valves use a hinged flap -- simple and reliable but they slam shut when the pump stops, causing a loud clunk called water hammer. Spring check valves close gradually with a spring, which eliminates the hammer. For residential sump and ejector use, a spring check valve is worth the extra $5-$10.

Discharge Line Routing

Route the discharge line as directly as possible from the pump to the exit point. Every bend, elbow, and vertical foot adds friction that the pump has to overcome. Use long-sweep elbows instead of sharp 90s. The discharge should exit the foundation wall and terminate at least 10 feet from the house, aimed downhill and away from the foundation.

Tools & Materials

Check valve (spring type recommended)
PVC pipe (1-1/2 inch for sump, 2 inch for ejector)
PVC cement and primer
Hose clamps (if using rubber coupling)
Drill with hole saw (for wall penetration)
Hydraulic cement (to seal wall penetration)

Step by Step

Install the check valve
Mount the check valve on the discharge pipe as close to the pump as practical -- within the first 12 inches of vertical rise. Make sure the arrow on the valve points upward (away from the pump). Use PVC cement for permanent connections or a rubber coupling with hose clamps for easy future access.
Route the discharge pipe
Run the pipe vertically from the pump, through the foundation wall, and outside. Use long-sweep elbows for direction changes. Support the pipe with hangers every 4-6 feet. Drill through the foundation wall with a hole saw slightly larger than the pipe.
Seal the wall penetration
Seal around the pipe at the foundation wall with hydraulic cement on the inside. On the outside, use silicone caulk. This prevents water and radon from seeping in around the pipe.
Terminate the discharge properly
The outside discharge should slope downhill away from the house. Extend it at least 10 feet from the foundation. Add a screen or grate on the end to prevent debris and animals from entering. In cold climates, consider an above-grade discharge that drains freely rather than burying the pipe where it can freeze.

Pro Tips

Use a rubber coupling with hose clamps on the check valve connection instead of cementing it. Check valves need replacement every 5-7 years, and a rubber coupling makes that a 5-minute job instead of a cutting-and-regluing ordeal.
In cold climates, insulate the discharge pipe where it passes through the foundation wall. A frozen discharge line means the pump runs but water has nowhere to go, which floods the basin and then the basement.
Drill a small weep hole (1/8 inch) in the discharge pipe just above the pump outlet but below the check valve. This prevents an airlock that can keep the pump from priming.

Mistakes to Avoid

Installing the check valve backwards -- water flows the wrong way and the pump can't discharge.
Mounting the check valve at the top of the discharge run instead of near the pump, which leaves a full pipe of water above the pump.
Not sealing the wall penetration, allowing water and radon into the basement.
Discharging too close to the foundation or into a spot that drains back toward the house.

When to Call a Pro

The check valve and discharge line are straightforward DIY work. Call a pro if you need to drill through a poured concrete foundation wall thicker than 8 inches, or if the discharge needs to connect to a municipal storm sewer (which typically requires a permit).

Bottom Line

A properly installed check valve and discharge line make or break a pump system. Spring check valve near the pump, direct pipe route with minimal elbows, 10+ feet from the foundation. Spend the extra $10 on a spring check valve and use a rubber coupling for easy future replacement.