How to Clean a Faucet Aerator
Updated February 20, 2026
The 10-minute fix for low faucet pressure that most people overlook -- remove, clean, and reinstall your faucet aerator to restore full flow and fix uneven spray.
Overview
Faucet losing pressure? Spraying sideways? Before you assume it is a plumbing problem, check the aerator. That little screened tip at the end of your spout mixes air into the water to reduce splashing -- but it also catches every bit of mineral buildup and sediment that flows through. Over time, those tiny screen holes clog up with calcium, lime, and debris, and your flow drops to a trickle. This is the single most common cause of low pressure at a single faucet, and it is the easiest fix in plumbing: 10 minutes, zero cost, full pressure restored.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Wrap your pliers or wrench jaws with tape or a cloth before gripping the aerator. Chrome and brushed nickel scratch instantly on bare metal, and those scratches are permanent.
- When you take the aerator apart, lay every piece out on a towel in the exact order you pulled them. Screens, washers, flow restrictor -- they all look similar but go back in a specific order. Mix them up and you get uneven spray or leaking.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Remove the Aerator from the Faucet
Most aerators unscrew by hand -- grip the housing and turn counterclockwise (looking up from below). If it will not budge, wrap a cloth around it and use pliers or an adjustable wrench. Go easy -- the housing is thin metal and will crush if you bear down too hard. Some newer faucets (especially pull-down and pull-out models) use a hidden cache aerator recessed inside the spout. Those need a small aerator key ($2-3 at the hardware store or included with the faucet) to remove. If you do not see an external aerator, look inside the spout tip.
Tip: Stuck from mineral buildup? Fill a plastic bag with white vinegar, submerge the faucet tip in it, and rubber-band the bag in place. Let it soak for 30-60 minutes, then try unscrewing again. The vinegar dissolves the mineral bond that is locking it on. -
Disassemble and Inspect the Aerator
Take it apart carefully. A typical aerator has (from outside in): the outer housing, a rubber washer or O-ring, one or more mesh screens, a flow restrictor disc (flat disc with a small hole), and a mixer disc. Lay each piece on a towel in the order you pulled it out. Look at the screens -- white or greenish crust is mineral buildup, sand-like particles are sediment. Check the flow restrictor for blockages. If any screen is torn, corroded, or caked beyond cleaning, just replace the whole aerator ($3-5 for a universal one).
Tip: Snap a photo before you start cleaning. Once you have 4-5 tiny screens and washers sitting on a towel, they all start to look the same. The photo saves you from guessing during reassembly. -
Soak in Vinegar to Dissolve Mineral Deposits
Drop all the parts in a small bowl of white vinegar -- enough to submerge everything. Let them soak for 30 minutes to 2 hours depending on how bad the buildup is. Heavy deposits? Soak overnight. The vinegar dissolves calcium and lime without damaging metal or rubber. After soaking, scrub the screens with an old toothbrush to knock loose anything that is left. Use a toothpick or needle to poke through any individual screen holes that are still plugged.
Tip: No vinegar? CLR works faster but it is harsher. Rinse everything thoroughly after using it, and do not let rubber washers or O-rings sit in CLR for more than a few minutes -- it degrades rubber. Vinegar is gentler and safe for everything. -
Rinse, Reassemble, and Reinstall
Rinse all parts under running water. Hold each screen up to the light -- you should see clear holes all the way through. Reassemble in reverse order (check your photo). Make sure the rubber washer seats properly in the housing -- if it is misaligned, the aerator will leak. Screw it back onto the faucet by hand, clockwise until snug, then a quarter turn with cloth-wrapped pliers. Do not crank on it. Turn the faucet on and check for improved flow, even spray, and no drips around the connection.
Tip: Still low pressure after cleaning? The problem is upstream. Check the shut-off valves under the sink -- make sure they are fully open. If that is not it, you could be dealing with a clogged supply line or low pressure from the main.
Pro Tips
- Clean aerators every 6-12 months -- or every 3-6 months if you have hard water. It takes 10 minutes and prevents the gradual flow loss that most people do not notice until the faucet is barely producing a stream.
- Just had plumbing work done? Clean every aerator in the house. Turning off the main stirs up sediment, and it goes straight to the aerators. Same thing after a water main break in your area or a water heater replacement.
- Hidden cache aerator? Buy the right key for your faucet brand -- Delta, Moen, and Kohler all use different sizes. The key is $2-3 and without it, the aerator literally cannot be removed.
- Replacing the aerator entirely? Match the thread size (male or female) and the flow rate. Bathroom faucets use 1.2 or 1.5 GPM, kitchen faucets use 1.8 or 2.2 GPM. Wrong flow rate completely changes how the water feels.
- Pull-down or pull-out kitchen faucet with low flow? The screen is usually inside the spray head, not at the spout tip. Unscrew the spray face and clean that screen the same way.
When to Call a Pro
You will never need a plumber for an aerator. But if cleaning it does not fix the flow, the problem is upstream: a partially closed shut-off valve (easy DIY), corroded galvanized supply pipes (needs replacement), low municipal pressure (call your water utility), or a failed PRV. A plumber can track down the real cause.