How to Use a Drain Snake
Updated February 20, 2026
Step-by-step instructions for operating a hand drain snake -- feeding, cranking, breaking clogs, and retrieving debris. The technique that makes the tool work.
Overview
A drain snake is only as good as the technique. Feed too fast and the cable kinks. Crank the wrong direction and it coils back. Force it and you punch through old pipe. This guide covers the hands-on technique: how to feed the cable smoothly, navigate pipe bends, identify when you have hit the clog vs. a fitting, and extract the blockage without making a mess. Once you learn the feel, you can clear most household drain clogs in 10-30 minutes without calling a plumber.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Wear rubber gloves. The cable picks up bacteria-laden debris from inside the drain.
- If chemical drain cleaner is sitting in the pipe, the splashback when the snake breaks through can burn skin and eyes. Wear eye protection.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Set Up the Snake
Pull about 12 inches of cable out of the drum housing. The cable tip is either a bulb end (for pushing through clogs) or a corkscrew/hook (for grabbing and retrieving). Loosen the thumbscrew that locks the cable. Position yourself so you can reach the drain opening and have room to crank the handle.
Tip: Place towels around the drain opening. When you pull the cable back, it drips and flings debris. Protecting the surrounding area saves cleanup time. -
Feed Into the Drain
Insert the cable tip into the pipe opening. Tighten the thumbscrew to lock the cable with about 6-8 inches extending from the drum to the pipe. Crank the handle clockwise while pushing the drum toward the pipe. The cable advances into the drain. When you have fed the exposed section in, loosen the thumbscrew, pull out another 12 inches, retighten, and repeat. Steady, controlled feeding.
Tip: Always crank clockwise. Counterclockwise can cause the cable to bind, kink, or unscrew at joints inside the pipe. Clockwise rotation helps the tip navigate bends. -
Navigate Bends
You will feel resistance at every pipe bend -- the cable has to flex around the turn. Keep cranking clockwise and apply gentle forward pressure. The cable will work its way around the bend. Pipe bends feel like soft resistance that gives way gradually. A clog feels like firm, solid resistance that does not give.
Tip: If the cable keeps buckling at a bend instead of going around it, pull back 6 inches and try again with slower, steadier rotation. Forcing creates kinks that are impossible to undo. -
Work the Clog
When you hit the clog: push and crank. The tip will either bore through the blockage or hook onto it. You will feel the resistance change -- it breaks through (sudden ease) or the cable gets heavier (hooked debris). If it breaks through, push another 12 inches past the clog to make sure you have cleared the full blockage. If it hooks, slowly pull the cable back while cranking to retrieve the debris.
Tip: For hair clogs, the corkscrew tip is best -- it wraps the hair around the cable and pulls it out. For grease or soap clogs, the bulb tip pushes through. If your snake came with interchangeable tips, use the right one. -
Retract and Clean
Pull the cable out slowly. Have a rag in your off hand and wipe the cable as it retracts into the drum. Remove debris from the tip into a bucket or trash bag. If you pulled out a significant blockage, feed the snake back in to check for more. Repeat until the cable advances freely to its full length with no resistance beyond pipe bends.
Tip: Do not let debris fall back into the drain. Keep a bucket or plastic bag at the drain opening to catch what comes out on the cable. -
Flush and Verify
Reinstall the P-trap if you removed it. Run hot water for 2-3 minutes. The drain should flow freely with no backup or slow draining. If still slow, snake again -- multiple passes are sometimes needed for heavy buildup. After confirming the drain is clear, clean the snake cable with a rag and spray with light oil (WD-40) before storing.
Tip: Follow up with a baking soda and vinegar flush (1/2 cup each, let fizz 15 minutes, then hot water) to break down any residual film on the pipe walls.
Pro Tips
- Buy a 25-foot hand snake with a drum housing ($15-30). The drum keeps the cable controlled and prevents it from whipping around. Avoid cheap snakes without a drum -- they are harder to control.
- For kitchen sink clogs (usually grease), remove the P-trap and snake the wall pipe directly. For bathroom sinks (usually hair), the P-trap itself is often the clog -- clean it first before snaking.
- Never use a regular drain snake in a toilet. Use a closet auger (toilet auger) which has a protective rubber sleeve to prevent scratching the porcelain bowl.
- If the snake reaches its full length without hitting a clog, the blockage is deeper than the snake can reach. You need a powered drain machine (rental $40-60/day) or a plumber with a longer cable.
- After clearing, install mesh drain screens on all sinks and tubs. Preventing debris from entering the drain is easier than snaking it out later.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if the snake cannot reach or clear the clog, if you feel the cable hitting something hard and immovable (possible collapsed pipe or root intrusion), if the clog returns within days of clearing (systemic issue), or if you are dealing with a main sewer line clog (requires a powered machine and possibly camera inspection).