What are expert tips for freestanding tub placement?

Bring the actual tub in before the rough-in if possible -- mark the drain from the tub itself rather than relying on the spec sheet alone. Leave 6+ inches of clearance on all sides for cleaning. Install floor-mounted filler supply lines before the finished flooring goes down.

What mistakes should I avoid with freestanding tub placement?

Not checking floor load capacity for the full weight. Roughing in the drain in the wrong spot. Forgetting overflow drainage. Installing a wall-mounted filler too close to the rim.

Freestanding Tub Placement

Installation Guide Intermediate 3-5 hours (plus rough-in) $300-$800 install / tub $500-$5,000+

Created by Ryan Pietrzak Illinois Licensed Plumber · In the plumbing industry since 2009

Updated February 20, 2026

Key Takeaway

A freestanding tub looks great, but there's more to the install than setting it down and hooking up a drain. You need the right floor support (these tubs are heavy), the drain roughed in at the exact right spot, and filler faucet placement matters more than most people realize. Plan this one carefully before you buy.

Overview

What to Know

Floor Support

A standard acrylic freestanding tub weighs about 70 pounds empty and 400-500 full with a person. Cast iron and stone resin can weigh 300+ empty. Most standard floor framing handles the weight, but second floors or long joist spans may need blocking or a support beam. Consult a structural engineer if unsure.

Drain Location

The drain rough-in has to be in the exact spot where the tub's drain outlet sits. Measure from the spec sheet -- don't eyeball it. A drain off by an inch may not connect properly. For renovations, this usually means cutting into the subfloor.

Filler Faucet Options

Three options: floor-mounted (supply lines through the floor -- looks best, costs most to install), wall-mounted (supply lines in the wall), or deck-mounted (built into the tub rim). Floor-mounted fillers need supply lines and a support brace under the floor.

Tools & Materials

Level (4-foot preferred)
Adjustable wrench
Drain assembly kit for freestanding tub
Silicone adhesive for feet
Supply lines for filler faucet
PVC drain pipe and fittings

Step by Step

Verify floor support
Check floor structure from below. Look for adequate joist size and spacing for the tub's filled weight. Add blocking if needed. The floor should feel solid with zero bounce.
Position the drain rough-in
Use the spec sheet to mark the exact drain center. Cut the subfloor opening and install the drain pipe at the correct height.
Run supply lines for the filler
Route hot and cold to the filler location. Install accessible shutoff valves behind an access panel.
Set the tub and connect
Position over the drain, connect drain assembly. Level using adjustable feet. Connect overflow. Attach filler and supply lines.
Test everything
Fill completely and check every connection. Look underneath for drips. Let water sit 15 minutes, then drain and check connections under load.

Pro Tips

Bring the actual tub in before the rough-in if possible -- mark the drain from the tub itself rather than relying on the spec sheet alone.
Leave 6+ inches of clearance on all sides for cleaning.
Install floor-mounted filler supply lines before the finished flooring goes down.

Mistakes to Avoid

Not checking floor load capacity for the full weight.
Roughing in the drain in the wrong spot.
Forgetting overflow drainage.
Installing a wall-mounted filler too close to the rim.

When to Call a Pro

If you need structural floor reinforcement, supply lines through a concrete slab, or significant drain rerouting -- those are pro jobs. The plumbing connections themselves are manageable for a confident DIYer once the rough-in is done.

Bottom Line

Freestanding tub installation is mostly about planning. Get the drain position right, verify the floor handles the weight, and figure out filler plumbing before the tub arrives. The actual hookup is straightforward once the rough-in is done.