How to Winterize Your Plumbing
Updated February 20, 2026
Protect your pipes from freezing and bursting with a complete winterization checklist. Covers occupied homes and vacant property shutdown procedures.
Overview
A single burst pipe can cause $5,000-$50,000 in water damage. Winterizing prevents that. Two scenarios: occupied homes need insulation, heat tape, and smart habits to keep water flowing safely through winter. Vacant homes (vacation properties, snowbird departures) need a full system drain -- shut off the water, drain every line, and protect every trap. This guide covers both. Most of the work is insulation and preparation that takes an afternoon and costs under $50.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- When draining a system for vacancy, always turn off the water heater BEFORE draining the tank. Heating an empty tank destroys it.
- RV antifreeze (propylene glycol, non-toxic) is the only antifreeze safe for plumbing. Never use automotive antifreeze -- it is toxic and contaminates the water supply.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Insulate Exposed Pipes
The most important step for occupied homes. Wrap all exposed pipes in unheated spaces with foam pipe insulation: crawl spaces, attics, garages, exterior walls. Focus on the first 6 feet of hot and cold pipe leaving the water heater. Cover every elbow and tee -- gaps in insulation are where pipes freeze. Secure with foil tape every 12-18 inches.
Tip: Pipes in exterior walls are the highest risk. If you cannot access them, keep the cabinet doors open under sinks on exterior walls during cold snaps to let room heat reach the pipes. -
Install Heat Tape on High-Risk Pipes
Heat tape (thermostatically controlled electric heating cable) is the gold standard for freeze-prone pipes. Wrap it around the pipe per manufacturer instructions, then cover with foam insulation. Self-regulating heat tape adjusts its output based on temperature and will not overheat. Plug into a GFCI-protected outlet. Essential for crawl spaces, exterior walls, and any pipe that has frozen before.
Tip: Self-regulating heat tape costs more than manual but is much safer -- it will not start a fire if overlapped or left on continuously. Worth the premium. -
Protect Exterior Hose Bibs
Disconnect all garden hoses from exterior hose bibs. A connected hose traps water in the pipe and prevents draining. Install insulated faucet covers ($3-5 each) over every exterior hose bib. If you have frost-free hose bibs, they still need the hose disconnected to drain properly -- the frost-free design only works if the outlet end is open.
Tip: Interior shut-off valves for hose bibs: close them and open the exterior bib to drain the line completely. This is the most effective protection for hose bibs. -
Occupied Home: Cold Weather Habits
Keep the thermostat at 55 degrees F minimum, even when away. Open cabinet doors under sinks on exterior walls during cold snaps. Let faucets on exterior walls drip slightly during extreme cold (below 20 degrees F) -- moving water resists freezing. Know where your main shut-off valve is and make sure it works, so you can stop water quickly if a pipe does burst.
Tip: The drip technique works but wastes water. A pencil-lead-thin stream is enough. If the forecast calls for extended extreme cold (multiple days below 0), dripping alone may not be sufficient -- insulation and heat tape are the real protection. -
Vacant Home: Full System Drain
Turn off the water heater (gas to OFF, electric breaker off). Turn off the main water supply. Open every faucet in the house -- hot and cold -- starting from the highest floor and working down. Flush all toilets. Open the water heater drain valve. Open the hose bibs. Let everything drain by gravity. Use compressed air to blow remaining water from lines if possible (connect a compressor adapter to a hose bib).
Tip: You will not get 100% of the water out by gravity alone. Compressed air at 30-40 PSI through a hose bib fitting pushes water out of low spots and horizontal runs that gravity misses. -
Vacant Home: Protect the Traps
Every drain trap (P-trap under sinks, toilet bowl, floor drains) holds water that can freeze and crack the trap. Pour RV antifreeze (propylene glycol, non-toxic) into every drain: sinks, tubs, showers, floor drains, washing machine standpipe. Pour 2 cups into each toilet bowl and tank. This displaces the water with freeze-proof liquid and also prevents the traps from drying out and letting sewer gas in.
Tip: RV antifreeze is pink and available at hardware stores for $3-5 per gallon. You will need 2-3 gallons for a typical house. Do NOT use automotive antifreeze -- it is toxic.
Pro Tips
- Smart water leak detectors ($20-50) placed near the water heater, washing machine, and under sinks alert your phone if water is detected. Worth the investment for any home, essential for vacant properties.
- If you are leaving a home vacant for winter, have a trusted neighbor check weekly. A burst pipe in an unoccupied home can run for days before anyone notices.
- Garage pipes are the most commonly forgotten. If your water heater or supply lines run through the garage, insulate them and keep the garage door closed during cold weather.
- After spring return to a winterized home: close all faucets, turn on the main supply slowly, check every fixture one at a time for leaks, and re-prime the water heater before turning on the heat source.
- If a pipe does freeze (no water at a faucet), open the faucet and apply gentle heat with a hair dryer, heat lamp, or warm towels. Start at the faucet end and work toward the frozen section. Never use a torch -- open flame on a frozen pipe can cause steam explosion or fire.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if you discover a pipe has already burst (shut off main immediately), if you need pipes rerouted away from exterior walls or unheated spaces, if you have a sprinkler system that needs professional blow-out, or if you are winterizing a large property and want professional compressed air line clearing.