How to Use SharkBite Fittings
Updated February 20, 2026
Use SharkBite push-fit fittings on copper, PEX, or CPVC -- how they work, how to prep the pipe, how to connect, and how to disconnect when needed.
Overview
SharkBite push-fit fittings are the easiest way to connect pipe without soldering, crimping, or threading. Push the pipe in until it clicks -- watertight, rated for permanent installation behind walls, in ceilings, and underground. They work on copper, PEX, and CPVC, which makes them ideal for transitions between pipe types. No special tools, no flame, no experience needed. The only thing that matters is proper pipe prep: clean, square cut, deburred, inserted to the right depth.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Rated for permanent installation and meet code in most jurisdictions. Some local codes restrict use in specific applications (behind walls, gas lines -- SharkBite makes gas fittings but they are a different product). Check local code if you are pulling a permit.
- Max rated 200 degrees F and 200 PSI. Not for steam, boiler connections, or industrial high-pressure. Standard residential water (40-80 PSI, up to 140 degrees) is well within spec.
Step-by-Step Instructions
-
Cut the Pipe Squarely and Cleanly
Clean, square cut is everything. Copper pipe cutter for copper, PEX cutter for PEX, fine-tooth saw for CPVC. The cut must be perpendicular -- angled cuts prevent full insertion or cause uneven O-ring sealing. Hacksaw only if you file the end perfectly square. After cutting, deburr both inside and outside edges with a deburring tool or sandpaper.
Tip: Deburring is critical and the step beginners skip most. Outside burr damages the O-ring going in, causing a slow leak. Inside burr restricts flow. Fifteen seconds of deburring prevents the most common SharkBite failure. -
Mark the Insertion Depth on the Pipe
Pipe must go in to a specific depth. By size: 1/2-inch needs 1 inch of insertion, 3/4-inch needs 1-1/8 inches, 1-inch needs 1-1/2 inches. Use the SharkBite depth gauge (included with many fittings, or $2-3 separately) to mark the pipe with a permanent marker. No gauge? Measure from the end and mark. When the mark reaches the fitting edge, the pipe is fully seated.
Tip: The depth gauge is a small plastic clip that slides on and lets you draw a line at exactly the right spot. Fastest, most accurate method. Multiple connections? The gauge saves real time and eliminates measuring errors. -
Clean the Pipe End (Especially Copper)
Copper: clean the outside with emery cloth or sandpaper until bright -- no oxidation, corrosion, or old solder. The O-ring seals against the surface, so rough spots mean leaks. Clean to at least the depth mark. PEX: usually fine unless dirty or printed near the cut. CPVC: light sanding to remove gloss. All types: no dirt, debris, or moisture on the pipe end.
Tip: Old copper that has been in service for years will be dark brown or green. Must be cleaned to bright copper. A few passes with emery cloth. Skipping this is the number one reason SharkBite fittings leak on old pipe. -
Push the Pipe into the Fitting
Hold the fitting, push the pipe straight in firmly and steadily until the depth mark is flush with the fitting edge. You will feel slight resistance through the stainless steel teeth and O-ring. At full depth, give it a tug -- should not pull out. The teeth grip the pipe, the O-ring seals it. Done.
Tip: Will not go to full depth? Most common cause: burr catching the O-ring, or the cut is not square. Disconnect (use the clip), deburr more thoroughly, try again. Do not force it -- that damages the O-ring. -
Test the Connection and Understand Disconnection
Water on slowly, check for leaks. Let it pressurize 2-3 minutes and inspect carefully. Properly made connection will be completely dry. Drip? Pipe is not at full depth or the surface was not clean. Water off, disconnect with the SharkBite clip (U-shaped plastic or metal clip that pushes the release collar back while you pull the pipe out). Re-clean, verify depth, reconnect. These fittings can be disconnected and reconnected multiple times.
Tip: The disconnect clip is essential -- you cannot remove a SharkBite without it. Keep the one that comes with the fitting. Lost it? $2-3 at any hardware store. In a pinch, a crescent wrench pushes the collar back, but the clip is much easier.
Pro Tips
- Available in every configuration: couplings, elbows, tees, reducers, shut-off valves, transition fittings (copper to PEX, PEX to CPVC). You can build a whole system with SharkBite if needed, though soldered or crimped is more cost-effective for large projects.
- Slip couplings (repair couplings) are the hero for pipe repairs. They slide completely onto one end, then slide back to bridge the gap. Essential for burst pipe repair where the pipe cannot move.
- PEX pipe: always use a stiffener (small brass insert inside the pipe end) before pushing into the fitting. PEX deforms when pushed, preventing proper seating. SharkBite PEX fittings include one -- make sure to install it.
- Rated permanent, but some plumbers use them as temporary connections during remodeling and solder the final joints later. Need water restored fast while you plan the permanent fix? SharkBite is perfect for that.
- Most common failure (rare): pipe not at full depth, pipe not clean (oxidized copper), or a burr that damaged the O-ring. Proper prep eliminates virtually all SharkBite failures.
When to Call a Pro
SharkBite fittings never require a pro -- they are designed for DIY. Call a plumber if you are doing a major project where many connections make soldering or crimping more cost-effective, if you are unsure about pipe material or size, or if a connection keeps leaking after multiple attempts (pipe or fitting may be defective).