How to Use Push-Fit Fittings
Updated February 20, 2026
Connect copper, PEX, or CPVC pipe in seconds with push-fit (SharkBite) fittings. No soldering, no crimping, no glue. The fastest way to make a watertight connection.
Overview
Push-fit fittings (SharkBite is the most common brand) snap onto pipe with no tools, no heat, and no special skills. Push the pipe in, the internal teeth grip it, the O-ring seals it. Done. They work on copper, PEX, and CPVC in any combination -- which makes them perfect for repairs where you are joining different pipe types. More expensive per fitting than soldering or crimping, but the time and tool savings are massive. Ideal for emergency repairs, tight spaces, and DIYers who do not want to solder.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Turn off the water supply and drain the line before cutting into any pipe. Even with push-fit fittings, you cannot connect to a pipe with water flowing.
- Push-fit fittings on gas lines are NOT approved. These are for water supply only.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Cut the Pipe Clean and Square
The connection depends on a clean, square cut. Use a pipe cutter (rotary for copper, ratchet for PEX or CPVC). Do not use a hacksaw unless you have no other option -- hacksaw cuts are rarely square. The cut must be perpendicular to the pipe. An angled cut will not seat properly and will leak.
Tip: A PEX cutter ($10-15) makes perfectly square cuts on PEX every time. For copper, a mini tube cutter ($8) works in tight spaces where a full-size cutter will not fit. -
Deburr the Pipe End
After cutting, the pipe end will have burrs (sharp edges or raised material). These must be removed. Burrs can cut the O-ring inside the fitting, causing a leak. Use the deburring tool built into most pipe cutters, or a dedicated deburring tool, or even fine sandpaper. The pipe end should be smooth and round with no raised edges.
Tip: This step is the most commonly skipped and the most common cause of push-fit leaks. Take 10 seconds to deburr. It prevents a $500 water damage claim. -
Mark the Insertion Depth
Each fitting size requires the pipe to be inserted to a specific depth for a proper connection. Check the fitting packaging for the depth chart. Mark the pipe at the correct distance from the end using a permanent marker. Common depths: 1/2 inch pipe = 1 inch insertion, 3/4 inch pipe = 1-1/4 inch insertion. When you push the fitting on, the mark should disappear inside the fitting.
Tip: SharkBite sells a depth gauge tool ($3) that clips onto the pipe and marks the correct depth automatically. Worth having if you are doing multiple connections. -
Push the Fitting On
Hold the pipe steady. Push the fitting straight onto the pipe with firm, even pressure. You will feel slight resistance as the pipe passes the O-ring and teeth. Push until your depth mark is flush with the fitting edge. Give it a slight tug to confirm it is locked -- it should not pull off. That is it. The connection is made.
Tip: If the fitting will not slide on easily, the pipe end may not be deburred properly, or the pipe may be slightly out of round (common with old copper that has been dented). Re-cut and deburr, or use a pipe straightener for PEX. -
Turn On Water and Check for Leaks
Turn the water supply on slowly. Check every push-fit connection for leaks. Dry the fitting with a rag and watch for 2-3 minutes. A properly made connection will not leak. If it drips, the pipe was not inserted fully, was not deburred, or was not cut square. Turn off water, use the disconnect tool to remove the fitting, re-prep the pipe, and reconnect.
Tip: Push-fit fittings are reusable. If you need to redo a connection, use the disconnect clip (included with most fittings or sold separately for $2). Push the clip against the fitting collar while pulling the pipe out. -
Support the Connection
Push-fit fittings add a small amount of length and weight to the joint. Support the pipe on both sides of the fitting with pipe straps or hangers within 12 inches. Unsupported connections can stress over time, especially on horizontal runs or in areas subject to vibration.
Tip: For permanent installations behind walls, many plumbers add a pipe strap directly next to each push-fit fitting for extra security. Some building codes require this.
Pro Tips
- Keep a few push-fit couplings and caps in your emergency plumbing kit. If a pipe bursts at 2 AM, you can cut out the damaged section and cap or repair it in minutes -- no soldering required.
- Push-fit fittings are approved for behind-wall use in most jurisdictions, but check your local code. Some areas require soldered or crimped connections behind finished walls.
- For copper pipe repairs, push-fit fittings eliminate the need to drain and dry the line completely (which is required for soldering). The fitting seals even on a slightly damp pipe.
- Push-fit ball valves ($10-15) are the fastest way to add a shut-off valve anywhere on a line. Cut the pipe, push the valve on both sides, done.
- The O-ring inside push-fit fittings is rated for 200 PSI and 200 degrees F. More than adequate for any residential application. Expected lifespan is 25+ years.
When to Call a Pro
Using push-fit fittings is always DIY. But call a plumber if you need to work on gas lines (push-fit is water only), if you need to connect to galvanized steel pipe (requires a threaded adapter first), if the pipe is too corroded for a clean connection, or if local code requires soldered connections for your specific application.