How to Snake a Drain
Updated February 20, 2026
Clear a clogged drain with a drain snake (auger). Reaches clogs that plungers cannot -- deep in the trap, wall pipe, or main line. Essential plumbing skill.
Overview
When a plunger will not clear the clog, a drain snake is the next step. A snake (also called an auger) is a flexible steel cable that feeds into the drain and physically breaks through or retrieves the blockage. Hand snakes handle most residential clogs -- hair, soap, grease, food. They reach 15-25 feet, which covers the trap and the wall pipe up to the main stack. For deeper clogs, a powered drain machine is needed (rental or plumber). Learning to use a snake saves you the plumber call on 90% of household drain clogs.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Wear rubber gloves. Whatever is clogging the drain will come back on the snake cable -- hair, grease, and decomposing organic matter.
- If you have used chemical drain cleaner before snaking, the standing water in the pipe contains caustic chemicals. Wear eye protection and avoid splashing.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Remove the Drain Cover or P-Trap
For sinks: remove the P-trap (bucket underneath) and feed the snake directly into the wall pipe. This bypasses the trap and gives direct access to the clog. For tubs: remove the overflow plate and feed the snake through the overflow opening -- it goes straight into the drain pipe past the trap. For floor drains: remove the cover and feed directly in.
Tip: Feeding through the P-trap opening is always better than going down through the drain opening. You avoid the tight bend of the trap and get better cable control. -
Feed the Cable Into the Pipe
Pull about 12 inches of cable out of the snake housing. Insert the cable tip into the pipe opening. Tighten the thumbscrew on the snake to lock the cable. Crank the handle clockwise while pushing the cable forward. When you feel resistance, you have hit either a bend in the pipe or the clog. Keep cranking through bends -- the cable will navigate them.
Tip: Clockwise rotation only. Counterclockwise can cause the cable to kink, coil back on itself, or unwind at a coupling inside the pipe. -
Break Through or Hook the Clog
When the cable hits the clog, you will feel firm resistance that does not give way like a pipe bend. Push and crank simultaneously. The snake tip either breaks through the clog (pushing it into the larger main line) or hooks onto it (wrapping hair or debris around the tip). You will feel the resistance decrease when you break through. Pull the cable back slowly, cranking as you go, to retrieve debris.
Tip: If the cable keeps hitting the same spot and will not advance, you may have hit a pipe joint, a collapsed pipe, or a very hard clog (tree roots, mineral buildup). Do not force it -- forcing can punch through old pipe walls. -
Retrieve and Clean the Cable
Pull the cable out slowly. Have a bucket and rags ready -- the cable will be coated with whatever was clogging the drain. Wipe it with a rag as you retract. Remove any debris from the snake tip. If you pulled out a large mass, feed the snake back in to check for more. Repeat until the cable advances freely to its full length.
Tip: If the clog was grease, the snake may break through but not fully clear it. Follow up with hot water and dish soap flushed through the drain to dissolve the remaining grease film on the pipe walls. -
Reassemble and Test
Reinstall the P-trap (if removed) with washers and hand-tight nuts. Replace the overflow plate or drain cover. Run hot water for 2-3 minutes and watch the drain speed. It should flow freely with no backup. If it is still slow, snake again -- there may be additional buildup deeper in the line.
Tip: After clearing, pour a kettle of boiling water down the drain (not on PVC -- warm water only for plastic pipes). This melts residual grease and flushes loosened debris.
Pro Tips
- A 25-foot hand snake ($15-30) handles 90% of residential drain clogs. Invest in one and keep it in the garage. It will pay for itself on the first use.
- For bathtub clogs, always go through the overflow opening, not the drain. The overflow connects directly to the drain pipe and bypasses the trap and shoe assembly.
- Toilet clogs require a closet auger (toilet auger), not a regular drain snake. The closet auger has a protective sleeve that prevents the cable from scratching the porcelain.
- If the snake cannot reach the clog (clog is deeper than 25 feet), you need a powered drain machine. These are available for rent at home improvement stores ($40-60/day) or call a plumber.
- Clean and oil the snake cable after every use. Wipe it down, spray with WD-40 or light machine oil, and store it coiled. A rusty cable is stiff and hard to feed.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber if the snake cannot reach or clear the clog (may need a powered machine or camera inspection), if you encounter heavy resistance that feels like a solid wall (possible collapsed pipe or tree root intrusion), if the clog keeps returning within days or weeks (systemic issue like root intrusion or belly in the pipe), or if multiple drains are clogged simultaneously (main line blockage).