How to Fix a Burst Pipe
Updated February 20, 2026
Stop the flooding, patch the pipe, and make a permanent repair -- emergency and long-term fixes for a burst water pipe using SharkBite fittings, compression couplings, or solder.
Overview
Water is pouring into your house and every minute you wait makes the damage worse. Priority one: shut off the water. Priority two: temporary patch to get water service back while you plan the permanent fix. Burst pipes happen from freezing (water expands and cracks the pipe), corrosion (old pipes giving out), or water hammer (pressure surges). For the permanent repair, a SharkBite push-fit coupling is the easiest DIY option on copper or PEX -- no soldering, no special tools. This guide covers the emergency response and the permanent fix.
What You'll Need
Safety First
- Shut off the main water supply right now. Every second counts. The main valve is usually near the water meter or where the supply line enters the house. Turn it clockwise to close. Know where this valve is before an emergency -- not during one.
- Water near electrical outlets, switches, or the panel? Kill the breaker for that area before you go near it. Water and electricity will kill you. Do not wade through standing water near electrical sources.
- Frozen pipe burst? Do not use a torch or open flame to thaw it. A flame near frozen pipes inside a wall cavity can start a house fire. Use a hair dryer on low, heat tape, or towels soaked in hot water.
- Wear safety glasses when cutting pipe. Copper cutters throw sharp metal shavings and hacksaw cuts create debris. One copper shaving in your eye is a trip to the ER.
Step-by-Step Instructions
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Shut Off the Main Water Supply Immediately
Find the main shut-off and close it. This is the only thing that matters right now -- everything else waits. It is either a gate valve (round handle, turn clockwise several turns) or a ball valve (lever handle, turn 90 degrees) where the supply enters the house. Once it is off, open faucets throughout the house to drain whatever water is left in the pipes and release pressure. This stops the flow from the burst section.
Tip: Cannot find the main or it will not turn? There is a secondary shut-off at the water meter, usually in a box near the street. You need a meter key or large adjustable wrench. If neither valve works, call your water utility -- they can do an emergency shut-off at the curb. -
Locate the Burst and Assess the Damage
Find the burst. Follow the sound of running water or trace the damage to its source. Visible pipes (under sinks, basements, crawl spaces) are easy -- look for a split, crack, or hole with water flowing. Pipes inside walls are harder -- look for bulging or discolored drywall, ceiling drips, or water pooling at the base of a wall. Once you find it, assess what you are dealing with: a pinhole or hairline crack can be patched and permanently repaired. A large split or severed pipe means you are cutting out the damaged section and splicing in new pipe.
Tip: Start removing standing water immediately -- towels, wet/dry vacuum, sump pump, whatever you have. Every minute water sits on flooring and drywall, the damage gets worse. If water has reached electrical outlets or appliances, kill the breaker before you touch anything. -
Apply a Temporary Repair (To Restore Water Service)
Need water back on fast while you get permanent repair materials? Temporary patch. Pinhole or small crack: wrap with self-fusing silicone repair tape (Rescue Tape) -- stretch it tight, overlap by half on each pass, extend 2-3 inches past the damage on each side. Larger crack: use a pipe repair clamp (two-piece metal sleeve with bolts that tightens around the pipe over a rubber gasket). No supplies at all? A piece of rubber from an inner tube or rubber glove held on with a C-clamp or hose clamps works as a stopgap. Turn the water back on slowly and watch for leaks.
Warning: Temporary means temporary. Tape and clamps can hold for days or weeks, but do not rely on them long-term -- especially inside a wall where a failure causes hidden water damage you will not catch until it is bad. Get the permanent repair done as soon as you can. -
Permanent Repair: Cut Out the Damaged Section
Shut the water off and drain the lines again. Use a pipe cutter (copper) or PEX cutter to make clean, square cuts on each side of the damaged section -- cut at least 1 inch beyond the visible damage to make sure you are working with solid pipe. Deburr the cut ends with a deburring tool or sandpaper -- burrs inside the pipe restrict flow. Measure the gap and cut a replacement piece to fit. For copper, cut the replacement slightly shorter than the gap to account for the coupling socket depth on each end.
Tip: If this was a freeze burst, inspect the pipe for several feet in each direction. Freezing often damages the pipe at multiple points along the same run. Look for subtle bulges or discoloration in the copper -- those spots expanded during freezing and are weakened even if they have not cracked through yet. -
Splice the New Section (SharkBite Method -- Easiest for DIY)
SharkBite push-fit fittings are the easiest permanent repair for most homeowners. No soldering, no special tools, and they work on copper, PEX, and CPVC. You need a SharkBite slip coupling -- it slides completely onto one pipe end, then slides back to bridge the connection. Clean the pipe ends with sandpaper or emery cloth. Mark the insertion depth on each end (1 inch for 1/2-inch pipe, 1-1/8 inches for 3/4-inch). Slide the slip coupling fully onto one pipe, position the replacement section, then slide the coupling back to bridge the gap. Push firmly until you hit the depth mark. The internal teeth grip the pipe and the O-ring seals the connection.
Tip: SharkBite fittings are $5-10 each and they save you from needing a torch, flux, solder, and the skill to use them. For repairs inside wall cavities, they are actually preferred over soldering -- no flame risk near wood framing and insulation. They are rated for behind walls and under concrete. -
Test the Repair and Monitor for Leaks
Turn the main back on slowly. Go straight to the repair and watch it carefully. Let pressure build for 5 minutes while you inspect every connection. Even a tiny drip has to be fixed -- a drip inside a wall causes mold and rot. If a SharkBite fitting drips, the pipe probably is not fully inserted. Shut the water off, use the disconnect clip to remove the fitting, re-clean and re-mark the pipe, and push it back on. If the repair is inside a wall, leave the access open for 24-48 hours and check periodically. Do not close the wall until you are confident it is bone dry under sustained pressure.
Tip: Meter test: note your water meter reading, then do not use any water for 2 hours. Check the meter again. If it moved at all, there is a leak somewhere. This catches slow leaks that you cannot see at the repair site.
Pro Tips
- Go find your main shut-off valve right now and make sure it turns. If it is a gate valve that has not been operated in years, it may be seized. Exercise it once a year -- turn it fully closed and fully open. You do not want to discover it is stuck in the middle of a flood.
- Keep a pipe repair kit on hand at all times: SharkBite slip couplings in 1/2-inch and 3/4-inch ($5-10 each), self-fusing silicone tape ($5-8), and a pipe repair clamp ($5-10). Total cost under $40. Having this kit means you can stop a burst within minutes instead of hours.
- After any freeze event, turn the water back on slowly and walk the entire house -- every visible pipe, under every sink, basement, crawl space. Frozen pipes often burst in hidden spots, and the damage does not show until the pipe thaws and water starts flowing.
- Galvanized steel pipe (gray metal, threaded connections)? Do not try to repair it yourself. Galvanized is usually corroded internally and breaking one connection often causes the next one to fail. Call a plumber and talk about replacing that section with copper or PEX.
- Before you clean anything up, document the damage with photos and video. Homeowner's insurance typically covers sudden pipe bursts (not gradual leaks). Having documentation ready when you file makes the process much smoother.
When to Call a Pro
Call a plumber immediately if the burst is on the main supply line (high pressure, high flow -- not a DIY situation), if the pipe is galvanized steel (threading needs specialized tools), if the burst is inside a wall or ceiling you cannot access without major demolition, if multiple pipes burst after a freeze (widespread damage), or if you are simply not comfortable cutting and connecting pipe. This is an emergency and most plumbers will prioritize the call.